What a pleasure it was for us to return to El Silencio and feel the sand between our toes again in this seafront shrine to haute cuisine.
Located on the small, picturesque beach of Cala Molí, the restaurant manages to pull off an impressive feat in blending the feel of a traditional style Spanish ‘chiringuito’ with Parisian chic.
El Silencio has a natural, organic vibe thanks to the rustic furnishings and decor in soft tones - think Sabina beams, wickerwork lamps, Esparto grass blinds and palm-fringed parasols. You get the impression it’s been a part of the scenery for decades.
On arrival, we were ushered to a table overlooking the beach - just perfect for sipping on a cocktail and people-watching. In the cove in front of us, holidaymakers on stand-up paddle boards glided by and small fishing boats chugged past.
It’s that magical time of year in Cala Molí when the sun sets directly in front of you and the warm afterglow of pastel colours lingers on as you turn back to the matter in hand: fine dining.
The service at El Silencio is always really quick and attentive - our young waiter had a good grasp of the dishes on the menu as well as the wines, and whenever we needed anything she was there immediately. We discussed what we’d be having with her and opted for a series of starters and mains that would showcase the restaurant’s seafood and fish dishes.
What better way to soak up the ambience, as the magical moment of twilight approached, than with a couple of finely-blended aperitifs? The eponymous El Silencio mocktail was refreshing while the full-bodied espresso martini we ordered was easily one of the best we’d tried all summer.
First up was a tasty portion of focaccia - freshly baked in the clay oven - with aioli.
A trio of plump oysters with red wine vinegar and shallots slid down nicely.
The Peruvian-inspired sea bream tiradito came in a bright yellow chilli sauce. The silky smooth and mildly spicy strips of fish contrasted perfectly with the crunchy texture of toasted quinoa seeds. The presentation of this dish was eye-catching.
Also Peruvian in origin, the hamachi sashimi with ponzu gel, gomashio and toasted corn kernels was exquisite and delicate.
The classic Peruvian corvina ceviche with leche de tigre was served with the crunchy toasted maize known as canchita in Peru.
Our waiter had recommended a dish of smoked rice from Catalonia’s rice-growing zone, the Ebro Delta to accompany our meal. Served with peas and chorizo sausage, it was an appetising mix of flavours and textures.
We also ordered a mixed salad with fresh herbs and a grilled sweet potato. A couple of glasses of Gaia, a young biodynamic Penedes, ensured our feast went down well.
The main dish was a grilled John Dory “a la Ligue” served with courgette, tomato, capers, basil, ‘Picolina’ olives and lemon. Generously sized, it was easily enough for the three of us.
For dessert, we plumped for a traditional homemade dulce de leche (no surprise to see this classic on the menu given chef Mauro Colagreco’s Argentine background), a mixed fruit platter and, best of all, a superb verbena panna cotta with strawberry and lime.
It hit the spot between slightly tart and sweet, perfectly.
With top gastronomy and cocktails, excellent service and a fantastic location, El Silencio is a hedonist’s dream. Though not cheap, the food is outstandingly good. What’s more, its convivial, chilled-out atmosphere and spacious interior mean it’s ideal for large groups of friends and families.
And right now, with its spectacular sunsets, there’s no better time to visit.
Book a table today to find out what all the noise is about.
