For most people living in Ibiza, lunching on fresh seafood beside the glittering Mediterranean as a sea breeze cools our faces is one of life’s greatest pleasures. The quality of the produce from these fertile waters is exceptional, and when paired with locally grown ingredients from the island’s farms and a stunning view, it is a combination hard to beat anywhere in the world.
We are always on the lookout for new and exciting venues to engage in this pastime. A place where we can enjoy the comfortingly familiar but with the thrill of something original and a little bit of extra zesty. Luckily, Es Fumeral at Cala Nova Beach has just given us the buzz we were looking for.
From an elevated position on the rocks overlooking the pretty beach, we can see the rolling waves typical of the east coast are full of bodyboarders eagerly waiting to catch a ride into shore. Meanwhile, in the shallows, children dive joyfully into the crashing foam. Without a cloud in the sky, it’s a glorious day for a restaurant review!
Open only at lunchtime, Es Fumeral is a brand-new family business with the pretension of being one of the island’s premier seafood restaurants. And it is immediately obvious that they have set their own bar very high from the outset. From the moment we are greeted with a welcome glass of Phillipe Gonet Champagne, it is evident we are about to experience something just a little bit special.
The beautiful chiringuito-style restaurant is the dream project of four sisters and real estate specialists who are in love with the island and who wanted to give something special back that has lots of soul. Well, they certainly got the location right… All they needed was an executive chef capable of creating the perfect menu to match it. Step forward Alberto Pacheco from Madrid’s famed seafood restaurant, Estimar.
Es Fumeral’s menu is in perfect harmony with the Mediterranean, and the aim is to let the top-quality produce do the talking in wholesome sharing portions. A perfect example of this ethos is our appetisers - melt-in-the-mouth slivers of Jamón ibérico bellota (acorn-fed ham) and a plate of one of the quintessential Spanish snacks, gildas.
Many of us will have guzzled plenty of gildas before, usually while sitting on a bar stool with a cold caña in the other hand. However, at Es Fumeral, they have been transformed into legitimate gourmet treats in homage to Rafa Zafra, executive chef at Ibiza’s stunning Jondal restaurant and mentor to chef Alberto at Estimar. These skewered olives, sun-dried tomato, guindillas (mild green chillies), ventresca (tuna belly), boquerones, and anchovies, with aperitif sauce, are astonishingly good with the seafood elements sourced from Casa Santoña in Cantabria. Could you eat a whole one in one go?
Allow us to present the gratifying parade of seafood delights that followed...
A decadent tray of Poget No. 2 oysters with green lettuce and coriander gazpacho gel.
Red shrimp carpaccio, captured within a ring of burnt chilli mayo and coriander oil. Its glassy appearance belies a deceptively creamy texture and gentle, sweet flavour.
More ventresca! This time, both raw and cured, forming part of a luxurious Russian salad with piparras (picante pickled peppers).
The star attraction on the Es Fumeral menu is undoubtedly the de-shelled spicy lobster with soft steamed buns. Exuding Asian flavours, the thick and rich sauce was sweet and vibrant, with a satisfying afterburn that demanded an extra portion of steamed buns to mop up. A bold and brave choice by the chefs, but is a gastronomic masterpiece.
A whole line and lure-caught squid, whose flesh was not so stressed and consequently very tender, was laid before us. Grilled on the kitchen’s open Josper charcoal fire and drizzled in a rich, dark Pelayo Salsa made from an onion, garlic, squid ink, and stock reduction, accompanied by a juicy tomato salad.
For dessert, a trio of incredibly pretty and desirable sweets showcased the pastry chef’s dexterous touch.
Chocolate cake with a gooey gianduja (hazelnut and chocolate) filling.
Another simple classic that was turned up to 10 is the creamy Es Fumeral rice pudding with added dill, mint, cinnamon, pomegranate, and redcurrants.
Coconut ice cream and smoked pineapple sorbet.
As a finale, we were invited to the traditional, warming drop of Can Vidal hierbas ibicencas digestif on ice to help the sumptuous meal go down.
It’s quite a remarkable achievement that, despite only being open for a matter of weeks, Es Fumeral is already able to match the very best that Ibiza has to offer. Chef Alberto Pacheco has exported some of his cosmopolitan know-how from the streets of Madrid to the idyllic coastline of Ibiza. Each plate has been meticulously designed, and every ingredient is fresh, delicious, and typically Spanish, coming only from the very best suppliers.
Last but by no means least, we have to commend the waiting staff, who are heavily invested in the project's success. Both knowledgeable and also really fun to talk to throughout the meal, they were a real credit to the restaurant.
For your ultimate holiday treat, reserve a table at one of Ibiza's finest new restaurants. You will be delighted that you did.
Photos by La Skimal
