What do you look for in a high-quality gastronomic experience? A magnificent setting? Delicious innovative cuisine? Superb service? Madunia possesses all three and much more.
Our team of reviewers visited this new restaurant - located just outside of San Antonio - last week. Let's take a closer look.
As they say, first impressions are lasting impressions. On arrival, we were escorted by an immaculately dressed receptionist to our table, by means of the splendid, wide staircase. Talk about making a stylish entrance!
As for the setting, to say its overall appearance is lavish and grand is an understatement. From the soft, natural tones and textures of the high walls and fibres to the warm glow cast by the fire, the use of wickerwork baskets for lighting and the sheer size of the place, it's quite simply a feast for the eyes. It's all skillfully integrated, creating a sensation of harmony.
When darkness encroaches, the overall effect is heightened by the contrast between the warm glow of the illuminated restaurant and the gorgeous blue-back of the San Antonio night sky.
Pre-dinner
Our enchanting Dutch waitress, Chianti, fluent in English, immediately introduced herself and inquired as to our aperitifs and refreshments. We opted for the house's signature mocktails and cocktails. Instead of simply suggesting items off the list, Chianti enquired about what we liked and recommended something suitable. Bespoke service, Dutch style!
As we imbibed our choice of aperitifs, we took in the eye-catching surroundings as - behind us - water trickled down the wall of black granite, a soothing, tinkling sound. Our favourite featured ingredients such as mezcal, figs, cardamom and Balsamic vinegar. But the truth is all of them hit the spot!
The locale, composed of several spacious terraces and intimate nooks and crannies, is ideal for groups, both small and large. Plenty of lush vegetation - with reeds, cacti and both local and exotic trees - for example, the splendid Argentinian tree known as palo borracho - characterises this restaurant's beautiful greenery.
You can easily see that a great deal of thought and effort, which involved the staff themselves pre-season, has gone into it.
At this point, we were presented to one of Madunia’s terrace managers, Lorenzo, a young man from Madrid with outstanding language skills and considerable charm, who guided us through the evening's sequence of delights. Like all of the staff we met during the night, he exuded professionalism, dedication, and true commitment to the restaurant’s founding principles.
Though it’s true to say we are often impressed by the serving staff at the restaurants we visit on the island, in the case of Madunia, it’s no exaggeration to state that we felt a genuine connection had been forged, above and beyond the standard exchange of pleasantries.
One stand-out feature of this new gourmet venue is that it not only champions the concept of local produce but carries it out in great detail and with total commitment. Hence the menu includes the produce from its lovely herb garden as well as other items sourced either from the island itself or the Spanish mainland.
The owners aim to avoid buying anything beyond these confines and its policy of buying in bulk when the goods are in season is key.
Bring on the banquet!
Chianti began by asking us about our dietary preferences and/or allergies. It was a nice touch. We started with the crusty unleavened house bread rolls with aioli. Resisting the temptation to eat all the bread straight away was no easy feat!
Eager to try out the wines, we ordered a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay.
This was followed by finely sliced Joselito ham, succulent red tuna with spring onion cream, grapefruit, burrata, tomato and raspberry dressing; a well-conceived mix of citric, dairy and sweet, beside a red prawn carpaccio with the addition of finger lime and caviar: our clear favourite.
The next round of accompaniments were totopos - a nod to the influence of Nicaruagan food - featuring crispy flatbread made of maize flour adorning a delicately flavoured crab salad.
Good as they were, pride of place went to the steak tartar. Composed of a mouth-watering purée of steak with a light salad above it, and the addition of that typical South American dressing, rocoto cream, we couldn't get enough of it!
Lastly, we were served a nutritious bowl of hummus with avocado and seasonal green beans. The chef, Ivan Arauz Beusink, who's half Dutch, half Nicaraguan, and his right hand Cristina Dueñas from Ibiza, had conquered us from the get-go with the creative starters!
Mains
Though not cheap, the Wagyu short rib - grown on the mainland of Spain - with rosemary and black garlic blew us away. Arriving on a plate adorned with sprigs of rosemary and embers of burning palo santo, it was akin to a ritual from an ancient Aztec ceremony. We'd never seen a dish of beef presented like this before! Another culinary high point for Madunia, the slow-roasted, thick chunks of beef were divine.
Rounding out our mains were some exquisite barbecued leeks with bone marrow and hazelnuts, and red peppers with pilpil, the classic Basque side dish.
Desserts
Miraculously, we found room for the sweets. Yet again, Madunia had concocted another surprise. This time, the burnt marshmallow with hazelnut parfait and coffee. More gastronomic mastery and magic. It came on an appealing wooden bowl. Lorenzo, quite a dab hand when it comes to presentation, proceeded to apply a burning ember with a pair of tongs. He meticulously scorched the delectable creation, lending it a singular, striped look and bringing out all the flavour of the hazelnut parfait.
Post-dinner
Now in a state of post-prandial rapture, we caught the eye of another of our servers, Aaron. We asked for a digestive hot drink. Rather than suggest something off the card, he asked us what herbs and spices we liked. Within no time, a Japanese teapot and delicate ceramic beakers appeared - like something you'd encounter in a Zen monastery - filled with a hot, pungent infusion of ginger and mint.
Though late, it was with heavy but satisfied hearts that we ascended the stairway to heaven and the exit. On the way, we had a final look around to admire the glorious setting and design, the radiant fire, the adobe-style, beige walls, and the seemingly unending terraces and nooks, filled with appreciative gourmands.
Open from 19:00 to 01:00, Madunia is a stunning, well-executed and innovative culinary concept that lights up the hillside of Cap Negret, a short drive to the north of San Antonio, attracting discerning diners from near and far. With all the cosy alcoves and large tables, and the tasty, highly shareable food, Madunia is the ideal place for sharing dinner with family and friends.
There is no question that it is also a great spot to admire the sunset or enjoy a pre-party drink. An all-rounder, in other words. For fans of Mediterranean fare with stimulating international touches, it's a must-try. It's worth it for the aesthetics alone.
Book your place at this special establishment here.
