Over a year has passed since we first set foot in Monkey on San Antonio’s famous Sunset Strip. At our previous visit, the restaurant had just opened and we were blown away by the total redesign of the famous venue and the surprising quality of the cuisine on offer. So much so, we declared it to be the ‘best food on the Sunset Strip’ (tm).
With a whole season to get settled in, we went back to check over the restaurant to see what progress had been made at the little Parisian ‘bistro by the sea’ over the past year.
Entering the gorilla-guarded portal into Monkey, the first thing evident is that it’s busy! Clearly, the word has got out and a loyal clientele has been built. On this occasion, most tables were already occupied, even though it was still quite early in the evening.
The views of the sun setting over the boats bobbing in the little bay of Caló des Moro remain as enchanting as ever, and the evening strollers walking up and down the promenade arm in arm are always fun to watch glide by.
Music plays a big part in the Monkey experience and their terrace DJs are among the best in the business. Setting just the right tone, keeping to cool, underground vibes, without feeling the need to venture into the stereotypical sunset fromage of other bars on The Strip.
Obviously, on a summer evening, the obligatory cocktails of the day are selected. Tonight we couldn’t refuse the sexy-sounding Lolita, a sensual combination of smokey mezcal with orange lime and ginger, and a smooth-as-silk Espresso Martini from the classic collection.
Monkey’s French/Mediterranean fusion cuisine has changed little since its opening, with only a few obvious refinements to the menu. But why change a winning formula? The choice is relatively small but nicely varied and it’s very reassuring to see that prices have changed very little, if anything, some dishes appear to have dropped in price.
Exceptionally rare tuna tataki with ponzu sauce and stacks of green chilli. Refreshing slices of watermelon help to create a sweet and hot treat.
A favourite from last year, the aubergine roasted on an open fire and drizzled with creamy tahini with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds, is a vegetarian’s delight.
It’s clear that the Monkey chefs know how to produce a decent ceviche. Their version, with cubes of fresh seabream, fennel shavings and topped with dill, has a very rich leche de tigre which is bordering on Thai green curry territory.
Our main courses were a pair of specialities from the eastern end of the Mediterranean.
A butterflied sea bass, with skin crisped on the grill, was presented prostrate on a wooden platter – naked and vulnerable to our eager forks!
Crispy chicken with labneh yoghurt and spiced with sumac was a creamy delight that is sure to be a favourite among the Monkey faithful.
A fresh and crisp courgette salad and some traditional French fries were the perfect sides to complete our sharing-sized main courses.
As a finale, we toned things down from last year’s full table extravaganza and opted for the luscious chocolate fondant with walnut ice cream and 3 spoons. It was more than plenty to top off the satisfyingly flavoursome plates which preceded.
Reflecting on the evening's meal as we wandered off down The Strip afterwards, it's safe to say that, one year on, we still love what Monkey has to offer. Not much has actually changed, and that’s probably a good thing… The team had set such a high benchmark from the outset that it is pleasing to see that they are working very hard to maintain it. Santé!
Normally you can just walk in from the promenade but to avoid disappointment you can book your table here.
