Restaurants with Michelin Stars, or with pretensions to join that illustrious pantheon, have one major commonality, they all tell a story with their cuisine. A degustation menu at the top tables usually involves a personal journey, authored by the head chef, which tells you everything about their own character, their past experiences and culinary ethos.
At 1742 Nassau Group & Edwin Vinke, the narrative is a tale of love. Love for the agricultural heritage of Ibiza, a celebration of the island’s sustainable produce and producers, and, particularly, a love for the fruits of the sea.
Already the owner of a 2 Michelin-Star restaurant, De Kromme Watergang sheltered at sea level among the polders and dikes of his native Netherlands, Head Chef Edwin Vinke is a man whose heart is with the sea, also evidenced by the tattoos of fish and seafood that adorn much of his body.
Moving to an island in the Mediterranean was a natural next step for Edwin and collaborating with one of Ibiza’s foremost hospitality brands, Nassau Group, has proved a massive success.
There is so much to unpack from a visit to 1742 that it’s hard to recount every detail in one article. At the beginning of the season, we were invited to the official launch event at this majestic establishment. On that occasion, we were unable to describe the cuisine in detail. So, for the sake of brevity now, we refer you to that article for background on the venue as a companion to this piece's examination of the menu.
With only 36 covers, the 1742 experience is an exclusive affair and reservation, of at least 2 days' notice, is essential. In return, you will be rewarded with an audio-visual-gustatory experience like no other.
Diners are treated to a carefully curated flow of lighting, imagery and music to complement the performance taking place on the palate.
Fun and funky visuals projected onto the walls make an important point of reference for each course. Marine images, including flamingos, fish, turtles, prawns, and jellyfish accompany the seafood courses, while the scenes turn pastoral, gliding above the almond groves and rich, red earth of the Ibizan highlands, as the meat dish is presented.
The music soundtrack evolves throughout the meal too, varying from Classical to Flamenco to Pop. Plus, there is always an extraordinary live performance to look forward to. Tonight, we are treated to a hair-raising duet by a pair of sopranos, uniting in Andrea Bocelli’s operatic classic 'Con Te Partirò'.
Amuse
The first course begins with a sequence of four amuses bouche that are served throughout the palace, from the grand entrance hall, past the open kitchen to the breathtakingly panoramic roof terrace.
Most surprising of all is a spoonful of Tartar de Sandia (watermelon tartar), personally served by the restaurant’s renowned chef, who teases the diners to guess its origin. Watermelon, baked overnight and then soaked again in seawater, this impressive little mouthful is a metaphor for the complexity of the dishes waiting in store.
Evidently, Edwin loves to subvert expectations and there are many subtle plot twists in the seven remaining chapters.
A quick word on the wines. Although we didn't opt for the full wine pairing, the house selections from the extensive 1742 bodega were on target. The white choice is an Albert Bichot Chablis. Light, fruity and fresh, and the perfect balance for the saltiness of the many seafood courses to come.
Ibizan Vegetables
Once seated, the main performance begins with a selection of tapas showcasing Ibiza’s finest produce, sourced from the island’s largest organic farm Terra Masía, and put to very creative use here.
First, an intensely zesty Clear Gazpacho had a distinctly citrus note.
Chef’s special Smokey Carrot is dried and smoked, creating a flavour and texture like a meaty sausage, and served with sweet, sour, and spicy kimchi for an unexpectedly savoury treat.
A delicate Padrón Pepper Tartalet with Romesco sauce had a nicely spicy kick, reminding us how padrón peppers of old once were.
Fruits of the Sea of Zeeland
Chef Edwin takes us back to his homeland, with a trio of North Sea shellfish. Each has been handled with such delicacy, that they are all surprisingly sweet and tender.
Delectable Dutch Oysters, marinating gently in a Margarita cocktail blended with cucumber, triple sec and lime.
Razor Clam Tartar is remarkably smooth and buttery, while the addition of edible flowers is more than just decoration.
The spicy and citrus Thai Tom Ka soup made with delicious cockles stood out the first time we came and is still a personal favourite.
Moscow Potato
Edwin’s take on the French classic ‘Pomme de Terre Moscovite’ features miniature new potatoes cooked in seawater, topped with sturgeon, Belgian caviar, a verbena mousse and crispy seaweed.
This salty treat was accompanied by a unique ‘nose cup’ designed to inhale the bouquet of a Japanese broth containing barbecued sturgeon and black sesame oil.
Rotja
The mood lighting turns a suitable shade of crimson as the Rotja comes out.
This locally-caught Red Scorpionfish, with artichoke and orange syrup sauce, paired with a long spoonful of tarragon foam containing the fish liver and ajo blanco (white garlic gazpacho) comes alive in the mouth with a blast of heat from the garlic sauce.
Camarones
Succulent and zesty shrimps from Ibiza presented two ways, with some kaleidoscopic prawn visuals to match!
One way, a very reduced bisque and sweet white coconut milk foam. The other is simply seasoned with sea salt and served with courgette and olive mayonnaise.
After cleansing our palates with a refreshing Mojito Sorbet, we switched to red wine in anticipation of the meat course.
To complement the meat, a glass of dark and oaky Rueda from the north of Spain was chosen - a 2018 Valduero Una Cepa, was bold enough to tackle the rich beef fillet.
Cabra
Sadly, due to seasonal supply issues, the Cabra (goat) course had changed to a smoked beef fillet from Galicia. Nevertheless, the fillet proved an adequate substitute, while the Levantine flavours remained with a couscous salad, baba ganoush, tomato purée and hints of Moroccan spices.
Es Vedrà
The finale is spectacular! A perfect scale replica of the mesmerising Es Vedrà rock, moulded from chocolate, mousse and meringue and accompanied by a salted caramel wafer, ice cream and a fennel salad. Paired with a shot of our favourite digestif, hierbas ibicencas and evocative Es Vedra projections, it was a truly magical masterpiece!
1742’s menu serves up wave upon wave of unpredictable flavours and textures, as Edwin and his team strive to create novel and provocative sensations. It takes most of the drive back down the narrow streets of Ibiza's Old Town to put much of it into context.
The effect is edifying – with so many pleasurable images and flavours swirling around the mind. Taken together, they crystalise into very satisfied smiles and friendly waves as we bid farewell to our chauffeur. Clearly, we all love 1742!
If you'd like to sample the full 1742 Nassau Group & Edwin Vinke experience for yourself, follow this link to reserve your seat at Ibiza's highest table.
